Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 39
Did anyone here buy the polar lights enterprise A that was available around 2005-2006ish? It's 1/350 and it's not the 2009 release. The version I bought didn't come with aztec decals. If you bought this one, did you later buy the decal pack that polar lights released instead of painting the aztec-ing? For anyone that had the 2009 release, did you use your decals or did you paint? Which method would you suggest?
Empire Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 742
# 2
06-16-2013, 03:37 PM
I know the one your talking about and it is an absolutly mervelous kit.

Consider getting the 1. Lighting kit, 2. SHuttlebay kit, 3. arboretum kit. It is an utterly huge model when you throw in all the works, and go for the open shuttle bay. If you use the aztec decal set or the aztec masking after market kit be prepared to spend a tremendous number of hours putting it all together. I firmly recommend a good airbrush.. and practicing on some toss away model before you start if you've never used an air brush before. Using a "real Metal" (tm) might just make the effect even better... PRACTICE and check the effect on some plain polystrene stock to see if thats what you want to do. There are a number of sites on the net dealing with specificly that kit, and what you can do with with it.

The Polar Lights Phase-2 movie enterprise is a museum quality kit. Treat it with that kind of respect and you could have a model that will happily grace your shelves 20 years form now.

Additional note.. consider one you've finished the kit the way you want of putting the whole bloody thing in a clear lucite cast to prevend damage to the model, or fading of details, paint and decals.. Truth that doing so will leave you a 30-50 lbs block..but as long as you feed the power to the LED lighting.. (bulbs or strips) out the display base to you can either put in new batteried or hook it all up to a ac/dc converter) it should last decades.

its not a cheap model anyway, so why fark around.. Plan Ahead, and do it right the first time..
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 669
# 3
06-16-2013, 03:54 PM
I used the decal set. you can buy it separate from many different web sites. along with photo etch parts as well. I used a lighting kit from Trekmodler and it came out wonderful. I am currently working on the TOS 1/350. There is also a larger Enterprise refit made by Northstar Hulls, something like 1/250 scale. There is currently one on eBay.
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 39
# 4
06-16-2013, 08:14 PM
Question: What is the Arboretum kit? I don't think I'll do the lighting A) I'm poor B)I'm clutzy C) I got the kit like 8 years ago for my birthday cuz it was like 60% off so it was only like $30 bux haha
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 669
# 5
06-17-2013, 05:12 AM
Originally Posted by thedoctor0889 View Post
Question: What is the Arboretum kit? I don't think I'll do the lighting A) I'm poor B)I'm clutzy C) I got the kit like 8 years ago for my birthday cuz it was like 60% off so it was only like $30 bux haha
Here is the best way to get a great look for the Arboretum. Go to your local hobby store and in the model train area get some of the bags of foliage and 3 different colors of sand. light and dark brown and green. light coat the floor of the area in elmers glue and apply the green sand. The dark sand for the walk paths. use the foilage to create trees and bushes. Just use tooth picks for the tree trunks. Just Google Enterprise Arboretum and you will see some great designs and ideas. But the bags of foilage come in many different colors and tectures so just be creative. Also you can get some small pebbles to use as boulders for the rest areas also. For the officers lounge use the foilage for the plants in the lounge.

To get a great look for the decals buy lots of Decal solvent, (don't use testers solvent, it's crap), when you apply the decals apply it after you get the decal on with a large flat brush or a small sponge and it will make the decal set into the hull lines and creases so there will be no bubbles or lines. It also makes the decals curve around edges and into cracks without gaps or creases. After they dry apply a coat of clear coat to the model to seal the decals on forever.

Use Tamiya clear Blue and Red paint for the Deflector and warp nacells and the Red for the Impulse eng. You can purchase a cheap airbrush that uses canned air for the propellant, costs about $20. Otherwise you will see the brush lines in the main deflector and the Nacells.
For the base coat of the hull apply 2 coats of flat white primer. (buy from hardware store or Wal-mart, much cheaper)

Then apply 2 coats of Tamiya pearl coat. This will make a beautyful shimmer to the hull like what appears in the movie.

Also for the Decal application use a scribe. Its a hobby tool that is flat on one end and pointed on the other. It makes moving and slideing the decals around easier instead of trying to use your fingers. Buy lots of paint thinner to correct painting mistakes and que-tips dipped in thinner to erase paint drips and finger prints and other mistakes. Also from having build about 4 of these, apply the decals first before attaching the saucer section and nacells and warp pylons.
Good luck, this ship is beautiful when done correctly.

Last edited by redsnake721; 06-17-2013 at 05:33 AM.
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 39
# 6
06-17-2013, 08:44 AM
Question about the pearl coat. I didn't know what to buy when I went shopping, I just remembered seeing pearl (went shopping last weekend). I bought a can of Testor's white lightning, would that be about the same? Already have the clear red/blue from when I built the Enterprise-B, I should Imagine I have enough of it since the B only used 2 drops of red. for painting the clear parts, I had the same problem trying to figgure out when I painted the B, do you paint on the inside of the piece or the outside?
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 669
# 7
06-17-2013, 09:45 AM
The paint goes on the inside not the outside. The White lightning wont work. Its too think and dosent look right. Its more a hotrod automotive paint. It will also leave a yellowish hue to the hull. Use the Taymia pear coat. Its a much more suttle effect and apply's evenly. The white lightning is more of a "candy coat" paint. After you apply the pearl coat hit it wil a good clear coat to smooth the tecture out. It makes putting the decals on easier. I hate Testor paint, its cheap but looks terrible if you ask me. Taymia is hands down some of the best model paint there is. If you must Model master paint is also good and not too expensive. There are areas on the Ship that use a Flanker Blue and Duck egg green like the front of the warp nacells, the bridge and the front edge of the neck and the warp pylons tringular vents. I also found if you have a steady hand to paint on the sensor bands around the saucer section vs using the decals. Since it is a curved area with lots of small ridges the decals are hard to apply. Use a light aircraft grey for the bands thin it out with thinner and use a small tipped brush with a point , not a flad edge and it paint will just bleed into the ridges so you dont have to really apply to much, also some paint masking tape (the blue kind) will make it easier to paint and not have to worry about mistakes. Also painting the bridge and the Eng section vs using the decals, looks much better. Honestly you goin g to spend about $100 in paint and supplies to do this model justice. I have every Star Trek model kit ever made from 1974 to the present so I have all the paint schemes saved in my head.

Last edited by redsnake721; 06-17-2013 at 10:13 AM.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 669
# 8
06-17-2013, 10:14 AM
Most of my collection is still in boxes. Everything from Romulan warbirds to Galors to Ferengi ships. High-end resin constellation class (stargazer!!!)
I see them selling on eBay for $100 or more sometimes. My 1/350 NX-01 is going for over $200 currently. I have been tempted to build it, looks easy since its just a solid silver color and there are some nice aftermarket aztec decal sets for it. But as a collector we don't build many kits from our collections unless we have multiples. I just picked up the Proshops USS Yamaguchi (Ambassidor class) in 1/550 scale. Came with a Fiber optic lighting kit. Very rare kit i have been hunting for. After you finish this kit another great kit thats not to hard is the large Defiant kit from AMT. Its out of production but is still on eBay and Amazon. Also be sure to go to there are entire sections of the forums devoted to the 1/350 polar lights Enterprise builds.

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