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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 11
05-21-2012, 03:03 PM
You want a bad one get the Polar Lights 1:350 scale NX-01 model. That thing is commanding very high prices ($150+) and I was lucky to get it on sale few years back for just $9.99 but the thing is pure crap. I didnt even finish it because things werent fitting right, mainly the saucer exterior walls didnt line up they were either warped or not cast right or something.



I was looking at the Enterprise B model, since the NX was a failiure due to design I was going to light it up but I doubt the smaller NX could be lit up for the same details I am looking for so I am leaning towards the Excelsior model to light up.
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 12
05-21-2012, 03:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tumerboy View Post
Ya, I always had trouble with all the AMT models I ever built. I think the plastic they used was just too thin, so it warped very easily, and at (relatively) low temperatures. I remember one of the D's I put together had a ton of problems with parts popping apart.
Zing!

This all reminds me of the instruction sheet for my Klingon Bird of Prey model. They had 3 modes the model could be built in:
1) Combat mode, with the wings down.
2) Cruise mode, with the wings up.
3) Cloaked mode, which showed a picture of the empty display stand.
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 13
05-21-2012, 04:29 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tumerboy View Post
Ya, I always had trouble with all the AMT models I ever built. I think the plastic they used was just too thin, so it warped very easily, and at (relatively) low temperatures. I remember one of the D's I put together had a ton of problems with parts popping apart.
It Lives !!!

WB Tumorboy...

I have several of my original Enterprise 1701 Trek Model kits, still in the boxes....

Saving them for my retirement years.
(I've actually got about 25 assorted Trek models still in boxes, waiting for me)

I built one of the 1701 models back in the late 80's with LED blinkies and grain-of-wheat lights in it.

Still have it too, though it got knocked over once and one of the nacelles broke at the hull...(the lights still work)

I have it packed away for the day when I can figure out how to reattach it without having to do a major break down.
(thinking maybe I'll build a custom wood lattice frame to hold it in place and use some epoxy)

Anyway..., another 10 years and retirement will be upon me.

Hopefully I'll still be able to build models, by then ( and still be alive)
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 14
05-21-2012, 04:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tumerboy View Post
Ya, I always had trouble with all the AMT models I ever built. I think the plastic they used was just too thin, so it warped very easily, and at (relatively) low temperatures. I remember one of the D's I put together had a ton of problems with parts popping apart.
AMT/ERTL did have some weird problems like that. For me, I think I ended up doing 3 different Galaxy class models as a kid. The windows were painfully difficult to paint. I ended up coming up with a 'cheap' yet easy way of doing it (yet still painting the correct windows as lit or off) with a dark pencil. The lit windows, I ended up painting in with a very tiny brush with paint and scraping the excess off with a model knife or toothpick.

Their secondary hull on Enterprise-D struck me as misaligned slightly. I never could, with each of the three iterations, get them to align as they should. Mind you, only another hobbyist would have noticed that if they looked really closely, but it just struck me as annoying. (Not to mention the paint guides were woefully inaccurate color-wise.)

To address the very tiny imperfections being visible (only to the well trained eye) and making it somewhat 'realistic', I ended up taking hooks which screwed into the ceiling and suspending the Enterprise D models via high quality and low visibility fishing line from my ceiling in my bedroom. Even with my siblings slamming doors through the house or the washer shaking it while in spin cycle, it hung suspended in virtual orbit near my closet. So, nobody could get close enough to see the minor flaws which annoyed me and it looked like it was simply floating in the air seemingly without help.
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 15
05-21-2012, 10:54 PM
Well I think for next month I'll get another 2 models, preferably space sci-fi related, but I do know sometime down the line I still want to get an SR-71 Blackbird.

So my question to all of you now is, does anyone have any suggestions??

So far I've done:

The Excelsior Class (duh lol)

The Battlestar Galactica
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 16
05-22-2012, 03:47 AM
i had a lot of these AMT/ERTL models back in the day,
lol i was so bad at building them, the Nacelles never lined up properly... hated that...
i didn't even paint them...

i still have 3 unpainted models on my shelf.
my k't'inga just fell off the shelf last week, bursted into 3 pieces, Qua'pla,
oh well finally room for a new Ship...

i think i just never had the patience to build these things properly (nor the tools or know how)

but i love those Art Asylum / Diamond Select Ships
http://diamondselecttoys.com/store/s...categoryID=269

way better than the toys Ban Dai ever produced.

They will never be *perfect* either but those are better than anything i could ever dream to built on my own.

...i hear they are going to make another round of 1701-E, waiting for that to happen for over a year now and every time i ask my shop they tell me that it got delayed by another 6 months *ugh*

they also had these prototype on some show:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_LQtZsmCAqA...Excelsiors.jpg

but no ETA :-(

WANT ^^
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 17
05-22-2012, 09:28 AM
I had a 1/350 scale Ent-D model at one time. I dont recall the maker but it was real crap plastic. The saucer section was separable being held by plastic hooks and a peg that slotted into where the battle bridge is. Of course the plastic hooks and peg just couldnt support the weight of the saucer. So I had to cement it together as a single model piece. Came home one day and found the saucer busted on the floor. The neck of the stardrive had just snapped. Instead of cementing it back together and puttying the cracks, sanding it down and repainting it, I just tossed it in the trash.
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 18
05-22-2012, 09:50 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryeknow
Of course the plastic hooks and peg just couldnt support the weight of the saucer. So I had to cement it together as a single model piece.
Yeah, I've found a very poor quality for most of the connectors and stands for my models over the years. I had to glue a metal pin to the stand for my Galor to have a chance of staying on it, but it will still fall off after sitting for a while as the glue slowly separates from the constant strain of the design. For a couple other models, I've found that putting them on the stand *backwards* actually makes them more stable. Grrrr.

Here's a pic of my Galor and Kazon Torpedo. Notice the stand is backwards for the Torpedo and the Galor is swiveled to some weird angle.
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 19
05-22-2012, 11:41 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tumerboy View Post
Ya, I always had trouble with all the AMT models I ever built. I think the plastic they used was just too thin, so it warped very easily, and at (relatively) low temperatures. I remember one of the D's I put together had a ton of problems with parts popping apart.
What warp factor did it reach? 10?
Lt. Commander
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 120
# 20
05-22-2012, 11:41 AM
I had ages of problems with the 1701-A models.. until I learned to actually read the instructions and follow them IN ORDER. You gotta glue those pylons on the central body FIRST, and let the glue completely cure before putting the Nacelles on. Otherwise the softened styrene tabs just bend and pull away.
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